Chapter 6: Siem Reap—Ta
Prohm
Johnny (as he preferred being called) stood outside
his taxi (as he preferred to call it), motioning for
Maria to take the front seat, leaving Blake and
Sutton the back.
“Oh no,” Sutton interrupted,
“Maria, you sit in back with Blake. I need to sit up
front so I can tell our good friend here where to
take us.” A slight disappointment washed over
Johnny’s face but Maria just laughed at Sutton,
well aware of his real intentions.
A second later their guide was back on track,
beginning his new assignment by pointing out that
many of the ruins were being restored while others
were still overgrown—just as André Malraux had found
them in 1923. Although Malraux was expelled from
Cambodia for looting Angkor Wat’s ancient
sculptures, he would return years later as the
French, Minister of Culture.
|
Missing Heads
(Demigods pulling the
King of Snakes)
photo by:
Kevin
King |
As their taxi began leaving Siem Reap, from
his window Blake could see two girls playing in the river. “Look over there.”
Maria asked Johnny to stop for a second so that she
could take their picture. Happy with her
results, they continued on their way.

Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, Siem Reap, Preah Khan, Preah
Neak Pean, Pre Rup—by
the end of their first week Jimmy had taken his new
clients to view many of the major temples
surrounding
Angkor Wat—but after days of blank stares from the occasional
monks they had stopped, Johnny drove them back to
the Banyan Tree Restaurant for dinner—everyone a bit disappointed and definitely tired.
About two hours later,
Sutton suggested that Blake and Maria take in the
local sights while he planned to check out the bar
and find something to read. And sure
enough, it didn’t take long for Maria to pull out her camera
again, this
time taking a
picture of a group of Khmer children who were
playing near two large elephants.
Turning to Blake with a big smile, Maria began
to tell him an amusing story she had once heard. “In
high school I actually memorized a poem by John
Saxe that I recited to my 11th grade English
class. It’s about an elephant. Want to hear
it?”
“Sure I do, but wait. Do you think you can
really remember it—squeezing her hand? That was a
long time ago!”
Laughing—“Of course I can remember it.” With a big smile on
her face and clearing her throat to mimic a serious
poet, Maria then began to speak:
It was six men of Indostan
To learning much inclined,
Who went to see the Elephant
Though all of them were blind,
That each by observation
Might satisfy his mind
*
The
First approached the Elephant,
And happening to fall
Against his broad and sturdy side,
At once began to bawl:
“God bless me! but the Elephant
Is very like a wall!
*
The Second, feeling of
the tusk,
Cried, "Ho! what have we here
So very round and smooth and sharp?
To me 'tis mighty clear
This wonder of an Elephant
Is very like a spear!
*
The Third approached the animal,
And happening to take
The squirming trunk within his hands,
Thus boldly up and spake:
I see," quoth he, "the Elephant
Is very like a snake!"
*
The
Fourth reached out an eager hand,
And felt about the knee.
"What most this wondrous beast is like
Is might plain," quoth he;
"'Tis clear enough the Elephant
Is very like a tree!"
*
The Fifth, who chanced to touch
the ear,
Said: "E'en the blindest man
Can tell what this resembles most;
Deny the fact who can
This marvel of an Elephant
Is very like a fan!"
*
The
Sixth no sooner had begun
About the beast to
grope,
Than, seizing on the swinging tail
That fell within his scope,
"I see," quoth he, "the Elephant
Is very like a rope!"
*
And so these men of Indostan
Disputed loud and long,
Each in his own opinion
Exceeding stiff and strong,
Though each was partly in the right,
And all were in the wrong!
*
So
oft in theologic wars,
The disputants, I ween,
Rail on in utter ignorance
Of what each other mean,
And prate about an Elephant
Not one of them has seen!
Giving a graceful bow as she finished, Blake gave
her a big hand as they both laughed and laughed.
“Wow! Now that was really impressive. I hope your
teacher gave you an “A” for that—and my God, what a
memory you have.”
“Why thank you. I don’t know. It just comes natural
for me. My mother said I got it from my father
who was one in a million.”
“Oh, look at that. Take another picture. Are you
thirsty?”
|
 |
“Yes, thank you very much. I wonder if
they have any ice? And yes, what a great poem.
The elephant appeared different to each of
them—presenting himself in many ways although he is one. I think religion is like that. God
has appeared throughout history with so many
faces and yet He is one.”
Motioning for the vendor to keep the change,
Blake said, “Yeah, but sadly—just like the
different blind men who were so positive about “their”
elephant—too often, mankind demands that “his”
religion is the only way—even quite willing to
kill those who disagree.”
As Maria and Blake drank their water they both
sensed the awkwardness of the entire subject of
whose religion is right and whose is wrong.
Taking the lead, Blake took Maria’s hand and
headed back to their hotel to find Major
Sutton. Soon they were both laughing again.
“Maria, there he is. Go ahead, take his
picture. I don’t think he even sees us.” Maria
pulled out her long lens, smiling as she
realized what a great picture she was about to
take—another photo for an album she had already
organized in her head. Slowly she lifted her
camera and pointed it at Major Sutton. Maria liked to take spontaneous shots like this,
passing on pre-arranged poses. Plus, this
created for a lot of surprises down the road
when it was time to show her friends the
finished album.
“There you two are! Did you have a nice walk. I’ve
just been sitting here reading up on history of
Angkor Wat.”
________________________________________
Although they were unhappy with the results of their
first week, one thing was clear—Angkor Wat
was a massive complex of temples and relics,
perfectly capable of hiding anything or anyone. They
felt they had hardly scratched the surface—certainly
no reason to give up but the sheer size of the
place was a sobering reminder of how difficult it
was going to be.
|
Hundreds of ruins around Angkor Wat
photo by:
Laetitia |
The next morning, breakfast was served at eight.
Only a few tables were occupied. Their waitress was
a Cambodian girl about nineteen years old with a
friendly smile. Without even asking, hot tea was
set on the table.
“How did everyone sleep?”
“Just fine, Major. Thank you.” Maria nodded in
agreement.
“Well, good. By the way, today we’re going to check
out the oldest monuments around here They’re called, The
Rolous Group. Here—let me read from this
magazine.” Maria adjusted her
seat, waiting for Major Sutton to continue. “I
probably won’t pronounce these names right, but here
goes: ‘The Rolous Group is a collection of
monuments representing the remains of Hariharalaya,
the first major capital of the Angkorian-era Khmer
Empire. It has become known as the ‘Rolous Group’
due to its proximity to the modern town of Rolous.
The ancient capital was named for Hari-Hara, a
synthesis of the Hindu gods, Shiva and Vishnu.’”
Setting her cup on the table, Maria looked at
Major Sutton and said, “I just find it so
interesting that Angkor Wat was built to
honor a religion so far away. I was reading last
night that New Delhi is well over 2000 miles
from here. I guess I never knew the full scope of
India’s influence around the world.”
Reaching for more tea, Blake said, “You’re
absolutely right, Maria. I think this place holds a
lot more information about the past than any of us
really know.”
Also pouring some more tea, Major Sutton said, “I don’t know
about you two, but as far as Angkor Wat is
concerned, what I want to know is where did all the stone blocks
come from? They’re
everywhere—in every imaginable shape and size. I
even tried to lift one the other day and my God, it
almost broke my back—and I didn’t even try to
move a large one.”
Laughing,
Blake then added, “And have you noticed how
Angkor Wat seems to have been constructed on a
flat, watery plain? I just don’t see any natural
rocks around here to have provided for all of this.
Maria, remember those pictures you took yesterday?
I mean, those were not just field-stones that the
builders of Angkor Wat found lying around on
the ground. No—I agree—Major Sutton is talking about stones
that were purposefully cut into different shapes.
So I’m with Major Sutton. Where did they come
from and what kind of technology did these people
have?”
Maria placed her cup on the table and then
said, “I guess the
rocks came from the mountains and were brought here
on boats—but the Major’s right—there seems to be millions
of them. Even if the rocks came from
the mountains by boat, that doesn’t explain how such
an ancient civilization was able to cut them into
all those different shapes.”
Blake
handed the magazine back to Major Sutton. “Well, we don’t want to
underestimate ancient civilization. I don’t know
how they cut these blocks, either, but as we can see,
they sure knew how. In my last year at college
I remember reading that in
Bolivia they found a 130-ton block of stone in a place
called
Pumapunka.
I
mean, they found all kinds of these stones—large and
small—cut
out of the hardest rocks known to man.
Professor Miller said they were milled
about 2500 years ago
with
such precise grooves and shapes that we don’t have
the slightest
clue. And not only were they somehow able to
cut these stones, they also managed to transport
them 10 miles up a very steep incline!

- Pumapunka, Bolivia -
Today, only a diamond-tipped rock saw
could make this 2500 year-old cut
photo by:
Mattcorbit
(wikipedia)

Extremely old - Extremely hard
-
Extremely Intricate
photo by:
Brattarb (wikipedia)

- Pumapunka, Bolivia
-
These
interlocking, H-shaped blocks have 80
individually cut-faces per block. They
all match with each other with extreme
precision and accuracy.
by permission:
Ancient Wisdom |

- Pumapunka, Bolivia
-
photo by:
Brattarb
(wikipedia)
As everyone stood up to leave, Blake reached down
for his pack. “Well, on that note let’s go look at
some more rocks and hopefully find someone who can
help us.” With everyone smiling at each other,
Blake, Sutton and Maria went outside to find their
guide.
Waiting for Johnny to fill up with gas, Maria
looked at Major Sutton and asked, “Was there
anything else interesting in that magazine?”
“Well, another article
mentioned that besides the obvious connection
between India and its famous story about churning an
Ocean of Milk, other stories from India can
be discovered here, too. It’s an interesting
article but I have no idea what these stories
mean.”
“Well Major, if we
find an
Ocean of Milk that picture will be worth a
million dollars!” Everyone began to laugh as Sutton continued.
“Besides Angkor Wat and the
Ocean of Milk, it
also said that if you know where to look you can see
an army of monkeys, led by their fearless leader,
Hanuman. His army helped Lord Ramachandra defeat
the evil Ravana, who had kidnapped Rama’s wife,
Sita. There is supposed to be some book called the
Ramayana that tells the whole story. Truly,
what an amazing place we have found—no wonder
Johnny told me that Rama is such a common name.
Seriously, I had no idea that any of this even
existed.”
|
Hanuman Massaging the
Feet of Lord Ramachandra |
|
Lord Ramachandra &
Monkeys with His famous bow
photo by:
Colin Payne |
Maria put her hand on her camera.
“Yes Major, we have a lot more to see. We just have
to keep asking—that’s all.”
Maria’s resolve was most welcome
and both Blake
and Sutton were pleased that her spirits were in good
shape. Most of all they admired her attitude. She
knew that the chances of finding her father alive
were next to nil and if they didn’t find him, she
was more than willing to accept that, too. Besides
her level headedness, Maria’s beauty was just
breathtaking. Looking at her,
Sutton couldn’t but help but notice, again, what a
handsome couple Blake and Maria made—both young and
ready to take on the world.
The 90-minute drive to the Preah Khan Temple
was their next stop. To get there they drove past
many of the sights and sounds that mark this part of
the world in the most unforgettable way—covered
markets with their baskets of bananas; wooden houses
resting elegantly on their timber stilts; rice
paddies; women making palm sugar; two boys playing
marbles next to one of the local taxis. Again, Johnny was
more than willing to slow down so that Maria could
take a picture whenever she saw something she liked.
|
Two boys playing
marbles
photo by:
Erin Joy |
After about two hours of exploring without any
new leads, Sutton decided that they should take
a few minutes to see if the Ta Prohm
temple had more to offer. They had been there on
their first outing but Sutton felt their timing
had been off. Finally, if Ta Prohm
proved to be a dead end, there were other sites
he wanted to visit. Johnny started the taxi and
slowly turned onto the road. Just ahead of
them Maria spotted a farmer pulling his cart. She lifted her camera
and took this shot.
One thing held true, no matter where they went, the entire area was steeped in beautiful
scenery. Finally stepping out of their taxi,
once again they entered the ruins at Ta Prohm—pale
gum trees emerging from vaulted-stone rooftops
greeted their arrival. But on the other hand,
root-laced bas-reliefs and piles of broken
pillars firmly blocked their way. True chaos has
a kind of innate perfection and nowhere on Earth
is it better expressed than in Angkor Wat.
Someone once observed that colors in nature
never clash. A true ruin displays this same
mysterious, unerring aesthetic. Every element
seems in place. Turmoil becomes delightful—destruction pleasing to the eye.
|
Ta Prohm Temple, Siem Reap, Cambodia
- Pale gum trees emerging from
vaulted-stone rooftops -
photo by:
John Campbell |
|
- Turmoil becomes delightful—destruction
pleasing to the eye
-
photo by:
Laetitia |
Performing flawlessly, Johnny had faithfully
taken them to wherever they wanted to go.
In the distance, Blake could see him patiently
waiting to take them to their next destination
but time was running out.
|
 |
At least there were now a few monks to speak to
and as Maria approached one of them, naturally
he must have thought that she was just another
tourist wanting his photograph. But the notion that she was just another
tourist was soon dispelled when Johnny was sent
over to ask about Rama and her father. The
question was followed by a lively discussion
between the two men. It seemed that Johnny
was demanding something.
Phnom Damrei was the only thing that any of
them could make out, being repeated at least a
dozen times; “Phnom Damrei! Phnom
Damrei!”
Sutton took a few step forward. “What’s he
saying?”
Johnny turned and pointed in the distance. “He
said there’s a village located on Elephant
Mountain where they still worship the old
way. He said that you should go there and ask.”